Some were wonderfully detailed, like that of the Swedish scientist Dr. Kalm — naming the exotic plants and animals, describing the odors, the public library in Philadelphia, the manner of building the avenues and homes. Some 70 years later, Captain Basil Hall wrote with a less scientific eye of early Washington, D. C. Between the two, Castellux wrote of the Revolution, the company of George Washington and dinner with General Schuyler.
Mrs. Frances Trollope wrote the most popular account of all, in 1832. Hers stressed the adventure of the tourist of the time. For all it was informative, it had characters much like one of her son’s novels, its attraction was its engaging narrative. Mark Twain would later admit that he greatly enjoyed the work and found it a true account of the land in which he grew up.
Here Mrs. Trollope watches the arrival of the new U. S. President Andrew Jackson on his way to be sworn into office in the nation’s capital.
…we heard that General Jackson, the newly-elected President, was expected to arrive immediately at Cincinnati, from his residence in the West, and to proceed by steamboat to Pittsburgh, on his way to Washington. This determined them not to fix the day of their departure till they heard of his arrival, and then, if possible, to start in the same boat with him; the decent dignity of a private conveyance not being deemed necessary for the President of the United States.
The day of his arrival was however quite uncertain, and we could only determine to have everything very perfectly in readiness, let it come when it would. This resolution was hardly acted upon when the news reached us that the General had arrived at Louisville, and was expected at Cincinnati in a few hours. All was bustle and hurry at Mohawk-cottage; we quickly dispatched our packing business, and this being the first opportunity we had had of witnessing such a demonstration of popular feeling, we all determined to be present at the debarkation of the great man. We accordingly walked to Cincinnati, and secured a favourable station at the landing-place, both for the purpose of seeing the first magistrate, and of observing his reception by the people. We had waited but a few moments when the heavy panting of the steam-engines and then a discharge of cannon told that we were just in time; another moment brought his vessel in sight.
Nothing could be better of its kind than his approach to the shore : the noble steam-boat which conveyed him was flanked on each side by one of nearly equal size and splendour; the roofs of all three were covered by a crowd of men ; cannon saluted them from the shore as they passed by, to the distance of a quarter of a mile above the town; there they turned about, and came down the river with a rapid but stately motion, the three vessels so close together as to appear one mighty mass upon the water.
*
More than one private carriage was stationed at the water's edge to await the General's orders, but they were dismissed with the information that he would walk to the hotel. Upon receiving this intimation the silent crowd divided itself in a very orderly manner, leaving a space for him to walk through them. He did so, uncovered, though the distance was considerable, and the weather very cold; but he alone (with the exception of a few European gentlemen who were present) was without a hat. He wore his gray hair, carelessly, but not ungracefully arranged, and, spite of his harsh gaunt features, he looks like a gentleman and a soldier. He was in deep mourning, having very recently lost his wife ; they were said to have been very happy together, and I was pained by hearing a voice near me exclaim, as he approached the spot where I stood, " There goes Jackson, where is his wife ?" Another sharp voice, at a little distance, cried, " Adams for ever!" And these sounds were all I heard to break the silence.
"They manage these matters better" in the East, I have no doubt, but as yet I was still in the West, and still inclined to think, that, however meritorious the American character may be, it is not amiable.
Mr. T. and his sons joined the group of citizens who waited upon him to the hotel, and were presented to the President in form; that is, they shook hands with him. Learning that he intended to remain a few hours there, or more properly, that it would be a few hours before the steam-boat would be ready to proceed, Mr. T. secured berths on board, and returned, to take a hasty dinner with us. At the hour appointed by the captain, Mr. T. and his son accompanied the General on board; and by subsequent letters I learnt that they had conversed a good deal with him, and were pleased by his conversation and manners, but deeply disgusted by the brutal familiarity to which they saw him exposed at every place on their progress at which they stopped; I am tempted to quote one passage, as sufficiently descriptive of the manner, which so painfully grated against their European feelings.
" There was not a hulking boy from a keel-boat who was not introduced to the President, unless, indeed, as was the case with some, they introduced themselves : for instance, I was at his elbow when a greasy fellow accosted him thus:—
‘General Jackson, I guess?’
The General bowed assent.
‘Why they told me you was dead.’
‘No ! Providence has hitherto preserved my life.’
‘And is your wife alive too?’
The General, apparently much hurt, signified the contrary, upon which the courtier concluded his harangue by saying, ‘Ay, I thought it was the one or the t'other of ye.’”
Mrs. Trollope. Domestic Manners of the Americans (1832), I, 193-8.
- The Fascinating Itinerary of the Gelosi Troupe, 1576. June 10, 2019. “The Spanish soldiers had not been paid and unpaid soldiers tend to rob and loot. The citizens were prepared to give them a fight. Violent flare ups were occurring everywhere.”
- A Thousand Years of English Terms. June 2, 2019. ‘One person did not say to another, “Meet you at three o’clock”. There was no clock to be o’. But the church bell rang the hour of Nones and you arranged to meet “upon the Nones bell”.’
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